[Sticky] Holy Grail Consensus
Below is a current Holy Grail list of features.
It will be updated as things develop.
If you have opinions on anything, discuss them in the forum.
This is one consensus - if anyone has their own list, post it.
HOLY GRAIL LIST:
(1) Bright as open windows: 10,000 - 25,000 Lumens
We have gone over 10,000 lumens, but it would be great to go higher.
Currently the only driver that goes down to 0.1% is 80w, and we'd need one over 200w.
*The minimum brightness may be brighter.
*Heat may be an issue for both the LED and the driver and power supply.
*Driver would likely be larger.
(2) Dim as a nightlight: 10 Lumens or less
Achieved 10 lumens, but always great to go even lower. The human eye can perceive tiny amounts of light at night.
If a higher power driver is used, the lowest brightness may be higher, a trade off.
(3) Ambient lighting (achieved)
(4) Even Illumination
Currently very even. There are questions about whether there is such a thing as "too even", and variations in illumination are better.
(5) Full Range Dimming (achieved)
(6) Bluetooth and knob (achieved)
(7) Halogen Replacement
As you dimmed the halogen floor lamps, the color temperature changed, and the range was excellent. Ideally we can make the color temperature change, another feature listed here.
(8) No Buzzing (achieved)
(9) No flickering (achieved)
(10) Replaceable Parts
(11) Natural light color range (Color Temperature 1800-6500K)
Tunable Color Temperature: 1800-6500K (mimicking natural light).
Daylight goes from a "warm" reddish-orange at dawn to bright white
at high noon, and back to warm at dusk.
With LEDs, you can adjust the natural color* by having a "tunable" light,
or self-adjusting, which changes color as you dim it, from warm to white.
This has the enormous advantage of being more comfortable or useful at different
times or for different needs.
A light too warm can be either relaxing like candlelight or gloomy,
and a cold light can be either brighten your day like a sunny day, or be uncomfortable.
This also has the great advantage of seeming much more dim when warm and
much brighter when white, despite the same intensity and power (lumens).
The halogen floor lamps and
incandescent lights had this enormous advantage, which has gone unnoticed
by most people as we moved to fluorescent lights, which are set at a single
level, and LEDs, which are rarely adjustable, and both of which are almost
always cold and white, to make up for them being too dim during the day, and
require different bulbs for different times of day and purposes.
With the WindowLED being so bright, you can have low color temps.
A major problem with changing natural color with an LED light is that it goes
to both being half as bright at it's lowest and highest natural colors and
brightest in the middle. This is because an LED light requires
two sets of LEDs, one for the lowest end and one for the highest end.
One goes dimmer as the color temperature is changed, and turns off at its
lowest or highest end, and when both of them are at full brightness, it
mixes the two. So, if an LED source were 10,000 lumens, it would only be
5,000 lumens at its warmest or whitest, and 10,000 in the middle. In order
to have the ends be over 10,000 lumens, you would have to have a 20,000 lumen
Ideally you can have it at any natural color and brightness, but it may not
be a huge deal for some people, or would be better than not having it adjustable
at all. If we wanted to make it adjustable and also over a certain brightness
across its range, we would have to program it to have a 20,000 lumen light
and program it to max out at 10,000 lumens, and it would require a driver
with enough wattage.
This is called color temperature (CT)*, and can be made brighter or
which is measured by how bright steel gets as it is heated, from cold to hot.
Color/ Tint / Etc?
Auxiliary Powered Driver
Small Power Supply
Passive cooling (no fan)